I’m just getting it because of course you want to get these liquid-nail to get into the grooves. But if you just get a paintbrush for this type of job and just take it into the gaps that way, you’re not leaving a big overlap like that which can be problematic. Because after five ten minutes you come out to clear off a recipe and you find it sort of sunk in a little bit too much into this existing board. Now you’ll develop your own routine based on the size of your room, and what works best for you but as you can recognize here, I was working on two floorboards at a time. And getting those stained entire width of the room and then working across those two floorboards to remove that stain before starting on the next I had a bin liner handy to put all of the stained tissues in.


And that whole process seems to work pretty well so where the staining me I should have just been able to proceed and apply two coats of hard wax oil to seal the floor. But unfortunately wasn’t that straightforward? Because in the process of prepping the floor to get it absolutely perfect I went over lots of blemishes the old scuff mark, I’ve filled a few little areas and spots sounded with this 180 grit sandpaper, and unfortunately that was a fatal error. Why? Because you need total uniformity across the surface that you’re staining because otherwise he carries that you spot on with you 180 grit sandpaper they’re going to be smoother than the other areas.


At the stain as I found out does not take so well in those areas so just to demonstrate the point say you’ve got a little mark, or a scuff on your floor boards. And for that reason you think I’ll just get a bit of 180 grit sandpaper so that’s another name clean pretty much exactly why I did anything right great that’s ready to stay when you cover your floor board with stain and you can see quite clearly here the area that I’ve spot sounded. Unfortunately, in my effort to get the floor absolutely perfect before staining it I ended up littering it with these spots service for apparel. But all my efforts to darken the light areas were unsuccessful and it left me with no alternative.


The sound on each floor boring question this one of the coarser 80-grit something that felt more similar to the natural state of the floor was before I had started, and then re-stain it but was the best one in the world it was difficult to get the newly stained planks to match the originals and I did ended up having to go over other areas of the floor with the stain to try and uniformly is everything so cautionary tale to you if you have got to do a bit of spot sanding. Additional prep work before staining make sure you use the right courses of sandpaper probably 80 to 220 grit experiment on a little scrap of wood first. In case you’re not happy with the results of that I’m afraid you might have to sand the entire floor prior to staining well it’s not perfect.


I’d finally got the floor to the point where I was happy with it so it’s time to start sealing it after quick vacuum to remove any residual dust. This is where the magic really happens because you take floor which is nice but has a bit of a sort of a mass feel to it and you give it a lovely sealed satin well clear matching which is incredibly durable, whilst I stuck with my mini roller sleeve.


Again simulated mohair here my advice to you would be to go with a nine inch or similar roller as I showed you earlier for your ceiling coat because it’ll make your job a lot easier a lot quicker and you’ll probably even get a more consistent coverage putting two coats of this off so I will laugh around. Start with those it’s got an even film across the surface I think with this stuff the trick is to apply enough of the oil. It sinks nice thing between the gaps of the floor walls let you can see here but then using the roller just take off the excess so that you have a nice even coat across the floor.


One pops, they’re hard wax always apply few days ago and have some really pleased with the way it’s looking there’s just a very slight roughness where the sort of grain has been brought up by the world doesn’t tell you to do this. But she says you don’t need to do this and this kind of person with some a hundred 80 grit sandpaper which I’ll put on this new gadget normally is a block of wood or something blocks like this. But I pick this up in screw fix and heavenly it uses an entire length of typical sandpaper which means less wastage. Just clamp it between that’s what plasters tool then a sandpaper block obviously I would get on with it I don’t need a good sandpaper for each board just take off that rough grain.


That’s great, I don’t really want to penetrate in the coats of oil let alone the stain I just want to very gently take off that rough Engram before applying the second coat of hard wax oil.


Then it’s just a case of given the floor very quick vacuum before applying the second coat we’re three to six hours drive time depending on conditions and maximum hardness over a 24-hour period the floor was finally finished so we got there in the end and the interesting thing is it actually looks a lot better in real life than it does on the video but I hope you can see here there’s this really nice durable clear matte finish now to the wood which most important it looks authentic and has given the floor an aged look.


How to Stain and Seal a Wood Floor Part 1